Floral Korean Jacket (Jeogori)

Accession Number: A.8416.64-2a


Label: Woman’s Costume, Korea, c.1960’s, Gift of Miss Younghee Choy


This traditional Korean garment is usually worn with a large skirt (chima). Together, the two items are known as a Hanbok.

This particular jeogori was originally paired with this chima.

This silk jeogori is made of a tan fabric woven with pink and light blue flowers. The cuffs of the sleeves are made of a dark red silk woven with a medallion pattern. The garment ties in the front with two strips of the same dark red fabric (Gorem). The collar of the coat is white silk stiffened with paper. The garment is completely lined with light blue silk.

When deconstructed, the lining was removed, as were most seams. Although the finished sleeves have a semi-circular lower edge, they were made from rectangles of fabric and left untrimmed, with the original corners hidden behind the lining.

A pattern was drafted and used to cut two identical pieces of the blue lining silk. Two pieces of crinoline were also cut. Each piece of blue silk was placed onto a piece of crinoline and hand sewn in place with a black thread, thus forming the front and back panels of the eye patch. A 16” piece of thin black elastic was cut and the ends were sewn to opposite sides of the back panel. A cardboard insert, slightly smaller than the pattern, was cut from the back of a Nature Valley brand Sweet and Salty Nut Granola Bar box. This insert was sandwiched between the front and back panel of the eye patch, crinoline sides inwards. The panels of the eye patch were hand sewn together around the outside edge.

The accession number has been embroidered on the front of the eye patch.

John Anthony Coat (3rd Use)

Accession Number:  M.75.129.1
 

Label 1: Coat, USA, John Anthony, C 1970
 
Label 2: John Anthony
 

Note:  This project is not considered complete until every scrap of deaccessioned fabric has found a use.  Often this means that a single deaccessioned garment may yield raw materials for multiple new items.  In this instance, the garment has previously yielded a child’s lion costume and ear muffs.
 
This form-fitting coat is made of thick, felted, cream-colored wool.  Both the cuffs of the sleeves and the large padded collar are covered with spotted white fur.  The coat is lined with a heavy synthetic white fabric and there are pockets located in the side seams.  The coat has no buttons, zippers, or other closures.
 
During previous deconstruction, the fur was removed and all seams and darts were picked out.  During this process, a partial interlining of thin cotton canvas was discovered.  This underlining was three pieces roughly sewn together, one piece for each side of the coat and a third for the bottom hem.
 
A discarded pine branch was obtained from a back corner of the garden and all needles were removed.  A piece of fabric approximately 9” by 38” was cut from the interlining and folded in half lengthwise.  One end was then secured to the wider end of the branch using a metal thumbtack.  The fabric was tightly wound around the end of the branch and secured with two small nails.  The fabric end of the torch was soaked for approximately 30 minutes in an accelerant.  The torch was lit.
 
The accession number has been carved into the torch handle.

Large Guatemalan Textile (2nd Use)

Accession Number: TR8616-20


Label 1: Conley, 11/4/86

Label 2: Guatemala, 12/86, Conley


Note: This project is not considered complete until every scrap of deaccessioned fabric has found a use. Often this means that a single deaccessioned garment may yield raw materials for multiple new items. In this instance, the textile has previously yielded a length of rope.

This is a 14’ length of hand-woven cotton fabric. It has a deep red ground with a black and white check woven in. It is an unworked piece of fabric and the selvage edges are intact.

After the previous use of this textile, there remained 12 strips of fabric, each approximately 2 3/4” wide by 8 1/2” long. Two of these were placed right-sides together, pinned, and sewn together on three sides. This was repeated. Both pieces were turned right-side out to form long, narrow envelopes of fabric. A thin strip of polyester batting was wrapped around a wooden hanger. The fabric envelopes were then stretched onto each side of the hanger, covering both the wood and the batting, and sewn together in the middle, just below the metal hook. Another strip of fabric was folded into thirds lengthwise and the long sides topstitched. This strip was then wrapped around the center of the hanger, covering the seam, and hand sewn into place, completing the padded hanger. The process was then repeated for a second padded hanger.

The accession number has been embroidered on the front of each hanger.

Korean Vest

Accession Number: A.8416.64-4d


This blue A-line vest is made of a gauzy synthetic fabric woven with a repeating leaf motif. There are wide hems on the front of the garment and on the armholes, with smaller seams on the back and side vents. All interior seams are left raw. After construction, the garment was stamped with small, silver floral and decorative motifs. There are also two silver medallions stamped on the front of the garment. The garment is not lined.

During deconstruction, seams near the two front medallions were removed and the printed medallions were cut from the garment. A small strip of fabric was also cut.

The strip of fabric was folded in half lengthwise and pressed. Each side was then folded in half lengthwise and pressed. The strip was folded again, pressed, and topstitched to form a hanging strap for the ornament. The medallions were placed right-sides together and pinned. The hanging strap was placed between them, with the ends sticking out. Using the outside edge of the printed medallion as a stitch line, all three were machine sewn together, leaving a small gap at one side. The ornament was then turned right-side out and loosely stuffed with fiber fill. Two nickels were inserted to weight the ornament, which was then hand-sewn closed.

The accession number has been engraved on a small metal disk which is attached to the hanging strap.

Blue Bolivian Blanket (2nd Use)

Accession Number: TR8616-35


Label: Bolivia, 12-12-86, Conley


Note: This project is not considered complete until every scrap of deaccessioned fabric has found a use. Often this means that a single deaccessioned garment may yield raw materials for multiple new items. In this instance, the garment has previously yielded three potholders.

This small blanket is made of thick blue wool. It is edged with a thin strip of blue cotton that has a decorative design machine stitched in light blue and light yellow.

During previous deconstruction, the decorative stitching and cotton strip were removed.

The Hebrew letter Shin was embroidered in white on a 3” x 1 ¼” piece of blue wool. On each of the long sides, 1/8” was folded under and sewn to a 4 ½” x ½” piece of fabric, forming a tube with a ¾” flap at each end. A second piece of 4 ½” x ½” wool was whipstitched to the back of the first. Just above the tube, the outside edges of the flap were gathered together and sewn into place. The same was done on the bottom flap. At the bottom end of the tube, a small circle of fabric was attached, closing the tube at that end. A mezuzah was purchased at David Solomon's Book Store. Although purchased flat, a prayer was said and the scrolled was rolled at the store. The rolled scroll was placed inside the tube, being careful that it was right side up and that the Sha-dai written on the outside of the scroll faced outwards. A small circular piece of fabric was sewn to the top of the tube, sealing the mezuzah case.

The accession number has been embroidered on the front of the mezuzah case.

Moroccan Textile

Accession Number: TR8616-18


Label: 12/86, Study, Morocco ?, Conley


This 162” x 33” textile is woven from reddish-orange silk with gold stripes of varying widths. The long edges are selvage, with one having a 1 3/4” wide decorative brocade pattern woven in gold. The short edges have been formed into 5” fringe.

A machete was obtained and measured. A 20” long section was cut from the brocaded selvage. The strip was folded in half with the long edges turned inwards forming a 10” strap. The edges were topstitched. A 22 3/4” x 8 1/4” piece of fabric was cut from the textile, with one end being a selvage edge. The other end of this piece was cut into parabolic curve to reflect the shape of the machete. All raw edges were secured with a zig-zag stitch. The 10” strap was folded in half to create a loop, and then sewn to the back of the 22 3/4” x 8 1/4” piece of fabric just below the selvage end. An 8 1/4” long piece was cut from the brocaded selvage edge and sewn into place just below the selvage end on the front of the 22 3/4” x 8 1/4” piece of fabric. 1/2” of the selvage end was folded over the brocaded piece and sewn into place. The long edges and bottom of the sheath were folded under by 1/4”. The sheath was then folded in half, and the long sides and curved bottom edge were top-stitched shut. To prevent the machete from cutting the seams, four grommets were installed along the bottom edge, with a fifth in the top corner.

The accession number has been embroidered just below the brocade strip on the front of the sheath.

James Galanos Long Coat (2nd Use)

Accession Number: M.79.239.13


Label 1: Galanos, 1967

Label 2: 2 Piece Coat, U.S.A., 1967, Galanos


Note: This project is not considered complete until every scrap of deaccessioned fabric has found a use. Often this means that a single deaccessioned garment may yield raw materials for multiple new items. In this instance, the garment has previously yielded a car seat cover.

This is a heavy, sleeveless, floor-length coat, with a matching belt. The outside is a black-and-white woven floral pattern; the inside is fully lined in a similar black fabric. The front closes with five black buttons.
During previous deconstruction, all seams were removed. The belt was left untouched.

A 1-wood (or driver) was measured and a pattern drafted consisting of three pieces: two sides following the shape of the club, and a long strip between them. After cutting the pieces out of the black lining fabric, they were partially sewn together, leaving the back of the golf club open. Three strips of elastic were sewn to the inside of the cover near the shaft end before the back was sewn shut. The shaft end of the cover was hand-hemmed. To indicate that this is a 1-wood, a single flower was cut from floral fabric and appliquéd onto the head of the cover.

The accession number has been embroidered along the back of the golf club cover.

At the time of this LACMA de-accessioning, several other Galanos outfits that had originally been donated to the museum by Nancy Reagan were also deaccessioned. Those items were gifted to the Reagan Presidential Library in Simi Valley.

Korean Wedding Jacket (Jeogori)

(shown here with accompaning Chima)

Accession Number: CR.356.66.1a


Label: Wedding Dress, Coat, Korea, c.1960’s


This jacket is made of a gauzy synthetic material in hot pink and yellow. The pink fabric has a woven medallion pattern, while the yellow has a woven floral pattern. There is a white fabric collar and the jacket is fully lined with yellow tulle. On the right side of the jacket there is a short yellow tulle strap that ties to a similar strap attached to the inside of the coat, just below the left sleeve. On the front of the jacket are two long, hot pink ties. After construction, medallions and decorative patterns have been printed on the pink fabric in silver ink.

During deconstruction, the pink ties were removed. The right sleeve was detached from the lining and removed from the Jacket. The seams in the sleeve were removed, freeing the yellow piece of fabric.

A canteen was obtained and from it, a pattern was drafted. Four identical pieces were cut from the yellow fabric. Two pieces were hand-sewn together along the top half, folded right side out, and pressed. This was repeated with the remaining two pieces, creating two identical pieces of double thickness. These two pieces were pinned and hand-sewn along the bottom edge. After turning it right-side out, the yellow canteen cover was then fitted onto the canteen and the two sides were hand-sewn together at the top, enclosing the canteen. The finished ends of the two pink ties were sewn together, forming one long strip. Approximately ¾” of both sides of the strip were folded under, pressed, and top-stitched into place. On the back of the strip, the edges of the folded-under sides were secured with a slip stitch to create a 1” wide strap. This strap was threaded through the three metal loops on the sides of the canteen. The ends of the strap were overlapped and machine-sewn together.

The accession number has been embroidered on the canteen’s pink strap.

Uzbekistan Embroidered Textile

Accession Number: TR8616-26


Label 1: Conley 11/4/86

Label 2: Uzbekistan Study, Conley, 12/86


This 37-inch square textile is made from silk Ikat fabric with stripes of blue, red, and yellow on a cream colored ground. The square is constructed of two pieces of fabric sewn together and hemmed on three sides. The fourth side is a selvage edge. The textile has a large border of tambour embroidery in black and red.

A “U” shaped pattern was drafted and used to cut two pieces from the textile. Being careful to match up the embroidery, these pieces were sewn, right sides together, leaving a small gap through which the neck pillow was then turned right-side out and filled with foam polystyrene beads. The gap was then hand-sewn shut.

The accession number has been embroidered just below the pre-existing embroidery on one side of the pillow.

Girl’s Korean Jacket (Jeogori)

(shown here with accompaning chima)

Accession Number: A.8416.64-3a


Label: Girl’s Costume (Coat(ie?), Korea, c.1960’s, Gift of Miss Younghee Choy


This tradional Korean garment is usually worn with a large skirt (chima). Together, the two items are known as a Hanbok.

This child’s sized jeogori is made of pieces of gauzy synthetic material in mint green, red, white, pink, yellow, purple and black. For the sleeves, the fabric has been pieced together to create stripes. On the front of the garment, pieces of fabric have been folded and sewn to create a decorative pattern of triangles. The garment ties at the front with two strips of red fabric. It is fully lined with a white synthetic netting. After construction, the garment was stamped with decorative patterns in bronze paint.

During deconstruction, the left sleeve was detached from the lining and removed from the garment.

Two 4” wide strips of fabric were cut from the length of the sleeve and sewn together to form a strip of fabric 4” wide and 20” long. The strip was folded in half lengthwise, sewn along the long edge, and turned right-side out to form a tube. An 8” piece of 5/8” wide elastic was threaded through the tube. The elastic ends were overlapped and sewn together. The ends of the fabric tube were folded under to form hems and sewn together to finish the scrunchie.

The accession number has been embroidered onto a green stripe on the scrunchie.

Brocade Evening Dress (2nd Use)

Accession Number: M.80.185.1


Label 1: 1 Piece Dress, USA, c.1952

Label 2: Mrs Chas Swett, Poss Gift, 8/27/80


Note: This project is not considered complete until every scrap of deaccessioned fabric has found a use. Often this means that a single deaccessioned garment may yield raw materials for multiple new items. In this instance, the garment has previously yielded an umbrella.

This floor-length, form-fitting dress is made of a green, pink, and orange check silk with a silver brocaded pattern of stylized birds, flowers, and crabs. The check of this fabric is uneven, with up to 1/2” variation in the width of the stripes. The garment has a boned lining of darker green silk with three hanging straps; it fastens up the back with a series of hooks, eyes, and a zipper.

During the previous deconstruction, the lining was removed and all seams were removed from the dress. For this project, all seams, darts, boning, and the zipper were removed from the lining.

A pattern was drafted. Pieces were cut from the silk brocade and the fanny pack was sewn together. The garment’s original zipper was used to close the pack’s main compartment. An original snap was used to secure the flap on the pack’s secondary compartment. To form the straps, two 4” strips of fabric were cut from the green silk lining fabric. Each strip was folded in half, and then each half was folded again until two 1” wide straps were created. Each strap was top-stitched, and one end of each was attached to the fanny pack. The other ends of the straps were secured to a side release buckle.

The accession number has been embroidered on the front flap.

Korean Coat (Jeogori) (2nd Use)

Accession Number: CR.356.66.2

Label: Coat, Korea, c.1960’s

Note: This project is not considered complete until every scrap of deaccessioned fabric has found a use. Often this means that a single deaccessioned garment may yield raw materials for multiple new items. In this instance, the garment has previously yielded a kite.

The body of this coat is made of a gauzy green synthetic material with a woven medallion pattern. This is lined with a green synthetic tulle. After construction, the garment was stamped with a design in silver paint. In places, this paint has seeped through the fabric and stained the tulle lining. The sleeves of the coat are made of similar materials in a variety of colors and have been pieced together to form stripes. The sleeves are lined with white tulle.

During previous deconstruction, one sleeve was removed from this coat. During this deconstruction, the white tulle lining was removed from the second sleeve and a a panel of green fabric was removed from the front of the garment.

A bee keeper’s helmet pattern was drafted. Six identical pieces of green fabric were cut and sewn together together to form the crown of the hat. Four loops of green fabric were formed and sewn equidistant from each other to the inside edge of the crown. A large piece of white tulle was sewn end to end to form a tube. On the lower edge of the tube, a small square of green fabric was sewn. A button hole was sewn into the center of the square. The bottom edge of the tulle was then folded up and sewn to create a wide hem. Two loops of elastic were also sewn into the hem, one on either side of the green square. A strip of green fabric was folded around a metal hoop and sewn closed. This fabric covered hoop was then sewn to the inside of the tube at an angle, with the back of the hoop several inches closer to the top of the tube and the front of the hoop, several inches lower. The top of the tulle tube was then sewn to the crown of the hat. Then, a second metal hoop was inserted into the crown of the hat, just above this seam. The crown and tulle sections were next folded over over the hoop and sewn together, forming the brim of the hat. A piece of elastic was threaded through the four tabs in the crown of the hat and the ends tied together. A separate piece of elastic was threaded through the button hole on the bottom edge of the tulle, threaded through the hem, and then back out the button hole. The ends of the elastic were tied together.

The accession number has been embroidered on the back crown portion of the hat.

Boy’s Korean Coat (Jeogori)

Accession Number: A.8416.64-3c


Label 1: Boy's Costume, Coat, Korea

Label 2: Gift of Miss Younghee Choy


The Body of this child-sized coat is made of gauzy, light blue, synthetic material with a woven pattern of grapes and grape leaves. This is lined with white plastic netting. The coat closes in the front with a pair of long, light blue ties. There is a white piece of fabric at the collar. There is small black piping where the collar connects to the garment. On the left side of the garment there is a strip of thin black piping and a ridge of fabric triangles in white, purple, pink, red, yellow, and green. After construction, the garment was stamped with medallions and decorative designs in bronze paint.

During deconstruction the collar and lining were detached from the left front panel of the coat and this panel was removed.

A dog's neck was measured. A 3" wide strip of fabric was cut from the fabric panel, being careful that the line of black piping and fabric triangles was included, but off-center. The strip was folded in half and pressed. Each half was folded in half inwards and pressed, creating a 3/4" wide strap of fabric. Each long side of this strap was top-stitched. The female portion of a metal side-release buckle was threaded onto one end of the strap and sewn into place. A metal D-ring was threaded onto the strap. The male portion of the side-release buckle was threaded onto the remaining end of the strap and sewn into place. The D-ring was slid down until it was approximately 3/4" from the male portion of the buckle and sewn into place.

The accession number was engraved on a bone-shaped dog tag and attached to the D-ring on the dog collar.

Herbert Levine High-Heel Shoe (Right Shoe)

(shown here with accompanying left shoe)

Accession Number: CR.447.68.1b


Label: Herbert Levine, 8 1/2AAA 8625


This is a woman’s high-heel shoe made from black suede. The pointed toe is tipped with a small piece of grey leather. There is a grey leather bow attached to the toe of the shoe. The inside of the show is lined with soft grey leather.

During the deconstruction the bow was detached. The body of the shoe was cut in half and the front portion was severed from the sole. A thin fabric batting was found between the outside suede and the inside leather and this was removed.

The following parts were salvaged from a worn-out watchband: a tang-type buckle, two removable spring pins, and two small plastic tubes. Using the remains of this band, a pattern was drafted. A thin layer of glue was applied between the outside suede and inside leather, and the two were bonded together. Pieces were cut for both the buckle end and tongue end of the strap. On the tongue end, one end of the grey leather was separated from the suede, cut off, and discarded. A salvaged plastic tube was placed at the cut end of the suede and the remaining flap of suede was folded over it. The flap was glued into place. A running stitch was hand sewn around the outside edge of the tongue portion using grey silk thread. Several holes were pierced though the tongue. A salvaged spring pin was inserted through the glued-in plastic tube and this pin was used to attach the tongue portion of the strap to the lugs on one side of the watch face. The bow was untied. From it, two small strips were fashioned and these were formed into loops that were both glued and sewn. On both ends of the buckle portion of the strap the grey leather was separated from the suede, trimmed, and discarded. On one end, a salvaged tube was placed, the suede was wrapped around it, and both were glued into place. At the other end, a slit was made in the suede and the buckle tang was threaded through. One of the two leather loops was threaded onto the buckle piece of the strap and positioned near the buckle. The suede was wrapped around the buckle, over the loop, and glued into place. A running stitch was hand sewn around the outside edge of the buckle portion using grey silk thread. The remaining leather loop was threaded onto the buckle portion of the strap. The remaining spring pin was inserted into the rubber tube and used to secure the buckle portion of the strap to the lugs on the other side of the watch face.

The accession number was painted onto the second leather loop.

(The watchband is shown here with accompanying left shoe)

Ben Zuckerman Dress

Accession Number: CR.462.68.17a


Label 1: ben zuckerman, New York

Label 2: I. MAGNIN & co.

Label 3: Black & White, printed silk twill c.1965, Deaccession 8-18-81


This plus-sized, sleeveless dress is made of patterned silk in tones of black, grey, and cream. It is lined with black silk. The bust of the dress is tailored with four darts. The top portion of the dress tapers at the waist, which is formed by a thin strip of fabric. From there, the three fabric panels of the skirt portion of the dress flare out slightly, with several small pleats in the front and two tucks in the back. Hidden in the seams on either side of the front panel are two pockets. A zipper extends more than halfway down the center back of the dress.

During deconstruction the lining and zipper were removed. All seams were removed. Upon examination, it was evident that the dress had been altered. The strip of fabric at the waist had been added to expand the waist slightly; along the back seam of the skirt portion, the dress has been taken in several inches.

2” strips of patterned fabric were cut and sewn together to make a strip 102” long. An identical strip was formed using the black lining fabric. Both strips were sewn to each other to form a tube and the edges were top-stitched to create a flattened strap. Several 3 1/2” wide strips of patterned fabric were cut and sewn together to make a strip 133” long. Onto the right half of this wider strip, the smaller strap, patterned side up, was sewn into a series of fifty loops, each sized to fit a 12-gauge shotgun shell. The wide strip was then folded in half, sewn into a tube and the sides topstitched. One end of the strap was fitted inside the other to form a right angle and sewn into place to finish the bandoleer.

The accession number was embroidered to a strip of black lining fabric and appliquéd to the right angled portion of the bandoleer.

John Anthony Coat (2nd Use)

Accession Number: M.75.129.1


Label 1: Coat, USA, John Anthony, C 1970

Label 2: John Anthony


Note: This project is not considered complete until every scrap of deaccessioned fabric has found a use. Often this means that a single deaccessioned garment may yield raw materials for multiple new items. In this instance, the garment has previously yielded a child’s lion costume.

This form-fitting coat is made of thick, felted, cream-colored wool. Both the cuffs of the sleeves and the large padded collar are covered with spotted white fur. The coat is lined with a heavy synthetic white fabric and there are pockets located in the side seams. The coat has no buttons, zippers, or other closures.

During previous deconstruction, the fur was removed and all seams and darts were picked out.

An audio headset, type H-113, was obtained and all audio wiring was removed. The ear pieces were removed and set aside. A piece of white wool was wrapped around the headband, trimmed, and hand-sewn into place. Each ear piece was placed on a “+” shaped piece of fur. The fur was folded up and around the ear pieces and sewn into place. The ear pieces were screwed back onto the headband to create the earmuffs.

The accession number has been embroidered to the left-hand side of the headband.

Guatemalan Woven Textile

Accession Number: TR8616-30

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Label: 12-86, Guatemala, Conley
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This textile is made of two pieces of hand-woven cotton fabric in a red and black pinstripe (each measuring 13 ½” x 24”) butted together lengthwise and hand-sewn to each other with a repeating pattern of purple, white, peach, lavender, and green wool. On each piece of striped fabric there is an 11” section woven with wool weft in a pattern composed of small circles, dots, and stripes in green, white, peach, lavender, and yellow on a maroon ground. Two sides of the textile are selvage. The other two are hand-hemmed and finished with a blanket stitch. At each of the four corners there is a handmade tassel of maroon wool. Three of the tassels also have a decorative element made of white wool. On the fourth, this element is maroon.

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A brick was washed and wrapped in several layers of newspaper. A T-shaped pattern was drafted and a used to cut a piece from the textile. This piece was then wrapped around the brick and hand sewn in place to form the doorstop/bookend.

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The accession number has been embroidered on one end of the doorstop/bookend.

Korean Wedding Skirt (Chima) (2nd Use)

(shown here with accompanying Jeogori)

Accession Number: CR.356.66.1b


Label: Wedding Dress, Skirt, Korea, c.1960’s


Note: This project is not considered complete until every scrap of deaccessioned fabric has found a use. Often this means that a single deaccessioned garment may yield raw materials for multiple new items. In this instance, the garment has previously yielded a garment bag.

This chima is made of a gauzy, hot pink, synthetic material with a woven medallion pattern. At the bottom of the skirt there is a 3” stripe of similar green fabric, a 3” stripe of pink, and a 3” hem of green. The stripes are printed with silver characters and stylized peacocks while the dress is stamped with silver medallions. In places, the silver ink has seeped through to the red tulle lining. The pink skirt is gathered into a series of pleats and attached to a red tulle band that has two red tulle shoulder straps. The dress closes with two large hook and eyes just beneath the left arm.

During previous deconstruction, the tulle band was removed, all pleats were taken out, and the lining was removed. The three stripes on the bottom of the skirt were also removed.

A wooden tennis racket was obtained, and the damaged strings were removed. A semi-elliptical paper pattern was drafted and used to cut two pieces from the red tulle lining. These pieces were sewn together, leaving one end open, to form the butterfly net. A piece of a green fabric stripe was cut, and the short ends hemmed. This piece was then sewn to the open edge of the tulle net and stretched around the open frame of the racket. Finally, the raw edge of the green fabric was folded over the wooden frame and hand sewn to the tulle, securing the net to the racket.

The accession number has been embroidered to a piece of tulle and sewn to the top of the net.

Claire McCardell Dress (2nd Use)

Accession Number: TR.514.2


Label 1: Woman’s Dress, 1954, USA, Claire McCardell, Gift of Sophia Snyder

Label 2: Claire McCardell Clothes by Townley, fabric by Stafford


Note: This project is not considered complete until every scrap of deaccessioned fabric has found a use. Often this means that a single deaccessioned garment may yied raw materials for multiple new items. In this instance, the garment has previously yielded three witches hats.

This is a sleeveless, black silk, bias cut dress. It is high-necked in the front with a gathered fabric detail at each shoulder. The skirt is partially lined and flares out from the waist. The garment closes with a zipper under the left arm. During previous deconstruction, the skirt portion of the dress was removed.

In this instance, the blouse portion of the dress was taken apart. All seams were removed.

A paper pattern, approximately one yard square was drafted. The pieces of the blouse portion of the dress were placed on the pattern, as were the remaining scraps of fabric from the skirt portion of the dress. Once the pieces were arranged so that the pattern was completely covered, they were pinned in place and hand-sewn together using a blanket stitch. The edges were hand rolled and secured with a whip stitch. The bindle, or hobo-bag, as it is sometimes known, was then laid flat. Various essential items were placed onto it. The alternate corners of the bindle were tied together, and the bindle was then tied to a bindlestick made from a pomegranate branch.

The accession number has been embroidered on the outside of the bindle.

Woven Textile

Accession Number: M.87.41.15b


Label 1: Barrow, 11/23/87

Label 2: 1d


This thin cotton textile measures approximately 29” by 86.” It has a black warp with a geometric diamond pattern woven into it with stripes of mint green, silver, and dark red weft. The long edges of the fabric panel are selvage. The short sides of the panel have a knotted black fringe.

Two snakes were removed from a can of peanut brittle. The damaged fabric was removed from the spring “snakes.” The red stripes were cut from the woven textile, and the resulting strips of green and silver stripes were sewn together to create two panels of fabric, each approximately 9” by 60.” These were then machine-sewn into tubes, and one end of each was machine-sewn shut. On that end, now the “head” of the snake, two circles cut from a red stripe were appliquéd to form the snake’s eyes. A tongue was also formed from the red stripe and attached to the head of the snake. The springs were slipped into the fabric tubes and the ends were hand-sewn shut. Finally, both snakes were placed in a can of peanut brittle.

The accession number has been embroidered to the body of each snake.

Girl’s Korean Hood

Accession Number: A.8416.64-3d


Label 1: Girl’s Costume (Hood)

Label 2: Gift of Miss Younghee Choy


This traditional girl’s hood is made of a single piece of black synthetic fabric with a woven floral pattern. The fabric has been folded in half and seamed at the top of the hood. To either side of this seam there is a tuck along the front edge of the fabric. The front and bottom edges of the hood have wide hems. There is a slit that runs from the bottom edge to about half way up the center back. There are two ties, each made of a separate strip of fabric and attached to the hood along the front hem. The bottom edges of the ties have been left raw. After construction, the garment has been printed with flowers and decorative motifs in a silver ink.

During deconstruction the ties and tucks were removed.

6 and 3/4 inches of fabric were cut from the bottom of the hood. The slit in the back of the hood was hand sewn closed and the raw edge at the bottom of the hood was folded over twice and sewn to create a 1-inch hem. A 4-inch section was cut from the left-side tie. One end of this piece was sandwiched between the two corners of the bottom hem and all three were sewn together. The other end of the piece of tie was sewn to the female portion of a commercially available “parachute buckle.” The remainder of the left-side tie was joined to the right-side tie to make one long strip. One end of this strip was sewn to the top center of the front edge of the hood. The other end was hemmed and threaded through the male portion of the parachute buckle.

The accession number has been embroidered to the front of the sling.

Black High-Heel Shoes (Martinique)

Accession Number: M.79.162.2a (Left Shoe), M.79.162.2b (Right Shoe)


Label 1 (Left Shoe): Shoe Fashions, Bullock’s, Downtown, M82332-14, 5000, 1a327

Label 2 (Right Shoe): Martinique, Custom Made, M82332-14, 5000, 1a327


This is a pair of black fabric shoes with 3 1/2” heels. Each shoe has a keyhole and a stylized, black satin bow on the pointed toes.

During deconstruction, the heels were removed.

The cut edges of the leather soles have been darkened and the heels have been attached to the wall to form coat hooks.

The accession numbers have been painted on the lower edge of each coat hook.

Knickerbockers

Accession Number: CR.71.22


Label 1: Knickers, USA 1925, Outseam 35,” Purchased with Costume Council Funds

Label 2: MP, 0203, RKO PROPERTY


This pair of knickerbockers is made of light brown cotton corduroy dyed with a dark brown zigzag pattern. There is a metal snap at the waistband and four dark brown plastic buttons in the button fly. The garment has two side seam pockets, a fob pocket on the right hand side, and two back pockets. The left hand back pocket closes with a medium-brown plastic button. The legs of the garment end in cuffs made of brown and black hounds tooth check. There is a two-pronged metal buckle on each cuff. The garment is not lined; however there is a strip of white fabric on the inside of the waistband. On the inside of the garment, the right back pocket is stamped “RKO PROPERTY.”

During deconstruction, the cuffs were removed. The seams of the knickerbockers were removed until there were four large corduroy panels, two for each leg. On the strip of white fabric on the inside of the waistband, a third label was uncovered. A small paper label, printed in blue ink and with hand written numerals, had been glued to the fabric and hidden beneath the construction of the fly.

Label 3: N. 1387, Yds. 131, Folder 8, In case of error return this ticket.

A damaged pair of boxing gloves were disassembled. Using the pieces as patterns, a new set of pieces were cut from the corduroy. Each glove required four pieces: one for the back of the wrist, one for the back of the hand, one for the palm side of the hand, and one for the palm side of the thumb. The pieces for the back of the hand and the back of the wrist were machine-sewn together. The pieces for the palm side of the hand and the palm side of the thumb were also machine-sewn together, and a strip of the hounds tooth check fabric was machine-sewn on top of the seam. To the inside of the palm piece, a piece of white fabric from the original glove was sewn along two lines, leaving a channel into which a tubular piece of foam from the original glove (used as a grip when the wearer makes a fist), was inserted. Next, a final piece of fabric from the original glove was attached to form the pocket into which the hand would be inserted. The original fiber stuffing from the gloves was sandwiched between the new front and back pieces and these were hand-sewn together. The openings of the gloves, at the wrists, were bound with strips of the hounds tooth check fabric, and tabs of the same fabric, along with the metal buckles from the garment, were attached to the wrists to allow for the tightening and securing of the gloves. The piece of pocket fabric with the RKO PROPERTY stamp has been appliquéd to the outside wrist of the right hand glove. A blank piece of fabric from the same pocket has been appliquéd to the outside wrist of the left hand glove.

The accession number has been embroidered onto two pieces of fabric from the garment’s pockets, and these have been appliquéd to the wrists of the gloves.

Indian Embroidered Textile

Accession Number: TR8616-33


Label 1: Indian Study, Conley, 12/86

Label 2: Conley, 11/4/86

Label 3: Made in India, 100% Cotton, Silk Thread Embroidered, State of Rajasthan Handicrafted


This large textile is comprised of three strips of hand woven cotton fabric joined together to form a rectangle approximately 48” by 74.” It is hand embroidered in silk with an all-over geometric pattern in pink, orange, green, black, and white. The long edges of the panel are hand finished with a blanket stitch. The short sides of the panel are left raw.

An awning frame was constructed of wood. Using this as a pattern, top and side panels were cut from the textile and their raw edges finished with a zig-zag stitch. After being sewn together, they were stretched onto the wooden frame and sewn into place. A long strip of fabric was cut into a scallop pattern, which was then hand finished with a blanket stitch. This strip was then sewn along the bottom edge of the awning.

The accession number has been embroidered to the front of the awning.

Floral Skirt

Accession Number: TR8618-8c


Label: Quash, 12/12/86, Conley


This large skirt is made of a synthetic knit fabric of pale yellow with stripes of a darker yellow edged in black. It is also dyed with an all over floral pattern in reds, oranges, pinks, and green. At the waist, the skirt is gathered and secured with a length of rope. At the hem, there is a line of gold and black rick-rack above a 5 ½” ruffle of pleated green tulle.

When deconstructed, the skirt yielded 11 ½ yards of floral fabric, pieced together from nine panels. The seams between these panels were not removed. There was also 11 ½ yards of black and gold rick-rack and a strip of green tulle, approximately 6 ½ inches by 29 ¾ yards, which had been used for the ruffle. Although portions of the tulle and rick-rack were removed from the floral panel, most was left attached.

Using the proportions of an existing camping tent, a pattern was drafted for a child-sized version. Sections of skirt with tulle and trim still attached were used to form the sides and front flaps of the tent while sections with tulle and trim removed were used for the floor and back wall. To provide stability, a 4mm silk ribbon was sewn into most seams. Rick-rack loops were attached to provide contact points for the pre-existing tent stakes. Appropriately sized tent poles were crafted from wooden dowels.

The accession number has been embroidered to a front flap.