John Anthony Coat (2nd Use)

Accession Number: M.75.129.1


Label 1: Coat, USA, John Anthony, C 1970

Label 2: John Anthony


Note: This project is not considered complete until every scrap of deaccessioned fabric has found a use. Often this means that a single deaccessioned garment may yield raw materials for multiple new items. In this instance, the garment has previously yielded a child’s lion costume.

This form-fitting coat is made of thick, felted, cream-colored wool. Both the cuffs of the sleeves and the large padded collar are covered with spotted white fur. The coat is lined with a heavy synthetic white fabric and there are pockets located in the side seams. The coat has no buttons, zippers, or other closures.

During previous deconstruction, the fur was removed and all seams and darts were picked out.

An audio headset, type H-113, was obtained and all audio wiring was removed. The ear pieces were removed and set aside. A piece of white wool was wrapped around the headband, trimmed, and hand-sewn into place. Each ear piece was placed on a “+” shaped piece of fur. The fur was folded up and around the ear pieces and sewn into place. The ear pieces were screwed back onto the headband to create the earmuffs.

The accession number has been embroidered to the left-hand side of the headband.

Guatemalan Woven Textile

Accession Number: TR8616-30

l

l

Label: 12-86, Guatemala, Conley
l

l

This textile is made of two pieces of hand-woven cotton fabric in a red and black pinstripe (each measuring 13 ½” x 24”) butted together lengthwise and hand-sewn to each other with a repeating pattern of purple, white, peach, lavender, and green wool. On each piece of striped fabric there is an 11” section woven with wool weft in a pattern composed of small circles, dots, and stripes in green, white, peach, lavender, and yellow on a maroon ground. Two sides of the textile are selvage. The other two are hand-hemmed and finished with a blanket stitch. At each of the four corners there is a handmade tassel of maroon wool. Three of the tassels also have a decorative element made of white wool. On the fourth, this element is maroon.

l

A brick was washed and wrapped in several layers of newspaper. A T-shaped pattern was drafted and a used to cut a piece from the textile. This piece was then wrapped around the brick and hand sewn in place to form the doorstop/bookend.

l

The accession number has been embroidered on one end of the doorstop/bookend.

Korean Wedding Skirt (Chima) (2nd Use)

(shown here with accompanying Jeogori)

Accession Number: CR.356.66.1b


Label: Wedding Dress, Skirt, Korea, c.1960’s


Note: This project is not considered complete until every scrap of deaccessioned fabric has found a use. Often this means that a single deaccessioned garment may yield raw materials for multiple new items. In this instance, the garment has previously yielded a garment bag.

This chima is made of a gauzy, hot pink, synthetic material with a woven medallion pattern. At the bottom of the skirt there is a 3” stripe of similar green fabric, a 3” stripe of pink, and a 3” hem of green. The stripes are printed with silver characters and stylized peacocks while the dress is stamped with silver medallions. In places, the silver ink has seeped through to the red tulle lining. The pink skirt is gathered into a series of pleats and attached to a red tulle band that has two red tulle shoulder straps. The dress closes with two large hook and eyes just beneath the left arm.

During previous deconstruction, the tulle band was removed, all pleats were taken out, and the lining was removed. The three stripes on the bottom of the skirt were also removed.

A wooden tennis racket was obtained, and the damaged strings were removed. A semi-elliptical paper pattern was drafted and used to cut two pieces from the red tulle lining. These pieces were sewn together, leaving one end open, to form the butterfly net. A piece of a green fabric stripe was cut, and the short ends hemmed. This piece was then sewn to the open edge of the tulle net and stretched around the open frame of the racket. Finally, the raw edge of the green fabric was folded over the wooden frame and hand sewn to the tulle, securing the net to the racket.

The accession number has been embroidered to a piece of tulle and sewn to the top of the net.

Claire McCardell Dress (2nd Use)

Accession Number: TR.514.2


Label 1: Woman’s Dress, 1954, USA, Claire McCardell, Gift of Sophia Snyder

Label 2: Claire McCardell Clothes by Townley, fabric by Stafford


Note: This project is not considered complete until every scrap of deaccessioned fabric has found a use. Often this means that a single deaccessioned garment may yied raw materials for multiple new items. In this instance, the garment has previously yielded three witches hats.

This is a sleeveless, black silk, bias cut dress. It is high-necked in the front with a gathered fabric detail at each shoulder. The skirt is partially lined and flares out from the waist. The garment closes with a zipper under the left arm. During previous deconstruction, the skirt portion of the dress was removed.

In this instance, the blouse portion of the dress was taken apart. All seams were removed.

A paper pattern, approximately one yard square was drafted. The pieces of the blouse portion of the dress were placed on the pattern, as were the remaining scraps of fabric from the skirt portion of the dress. Once the pieces were arranged so that the pattern was completely covered, they were pinned in place and hand-sewn together using a blanket stitch. The edges were hand rolled and secured with a whip stitch. The bindle, or hobo-bag, as it is sometimes known, was then laid flat. Various essential items were placed onto it. The alternate corners of the bindle were tied together, and the bindle was then tied to a bindlestick made from a pomegranate branch.

The accession number has been embroidered on the outside of the bindle.